6 ears corn, unshucked
1 cup crema
1 cup crumbled queso añejo or 3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 limes, quartered
1/2 cup ground pequín or other hot ground chile
1/2 cup sea salt

Carefully pull husks back from the corn, remove silk, and pull husks back in place. Soak ears in cold water to cover for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare grill for medium heat. Remove corn from water and place it directly on the grill rack over medium-hot coals. Grill, turning frequently, for about 20 minutes. If the husk is very burned but the corn is not yet tender, wrap in aluminum foil and continue roasting till done. Transfer corn to a platter.

Put crema, cheese and limes in separate small bowls. Place chile and salt in shakers or small bowls. Let everyone shuck his or her own corn. They then rub it with lime that has been dusted with chile, spread it with crema, sprinkle on the cheese, and season with salt—or proceed in any order that appeals.